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Thursday, July 28, 2011

History of Kalighat- the place which gave us our name.

As explained before, the name Kolikata might have been a metamorphosed version of Kalikshetra, which literally means the realm of Goddess Kali. Historically speaking, a so called kalikshetra existed from a pre-colonial era, it is said to have extended from  Dakshineswer  in the north to Behalapur (modern day Behala) in the south.  Let us take a look at the history of this place which has adorned the face of Kolkata, since before the time a certain Charnock sahib anchored near the banks of the Ganges.
Humble Beginning
Although, it is really tough to ascertain the exact time of foundation, the place Kalighat (and it's many forms) has found it's place in some of the ancient manuscripts. For example, Ptolemy's account of India  describes a place called Kaligrama, in the region of Gangaridai (c.90-c.168), which corresponds to current day region of Bengal and Bangladesh.


                                                                                                                           
Ptolemy's map of ancient Bengal ( Gangaridai )


Descriptions of  this place is also found in another great piece of ancient literature, Bhabisya Purana, which refers to a Kali temple near village called Gobindapur.
According to scholars, the temple might have been around since the Gupta Period ( CE 320- CE 600). The basis for this conclusion is the fact that some specimens of the famous archer type coins of the Guptas were found at the site.

                                                                                     
Archer type coins of the Gupta Empire, unearthed near the Kalighat temple.

Present day Kalighat temple can trace it's beginning to a small hut build by two saints Brahmananda Giri and Atmananda Giri. Legend has it, that these saints found fossils of fingers of the feet of Devi Sati from a pond nearby called Kalikund. Thus, puritans list this shrine as one of the 51 Shaktipeeths. If local folklore are to be believed , then the fingers are preserved in a silver box placed underneath the idol  ( though difference of opinion exists regarding the number of fingers found).
The temple, due to it's rising popularity, found itself the patronage of the local zamindar family- The Suburn Roychaudhary family. Under the  able supervision of Raja Santosh Roychaudhary, the modern look of the temple started taking shape in 1798.
Legends regarding the temple




                                                              
The iconic Kalighat temple during the 19th century.


 One feels that it would not be an exaggregation to state that the leverage of a religious institution can be understood by the legends it engenders. Kalighat temple,too, taking the advantage of the extraordinary imaginary skills of the Hindus, has a formidable collection of legends associated with it. Let us take look at a few of them.
After the founding sadhus left for their heavenly abode, the charge of worshipping the deity went to the 'Mohantos'. One such mohanto was Bhubanser Giri, who kept a woman Yogmaya as his companion or Bhairavi, according to the dictionary of ancient Shakta sect. Yogmaya died at a young age giving birth to a girl called Uma. When Uma attained the age of marriage ( which going by the the customs prevalent at that time, was pretty young, we may guess), Bhubanser got a divine message from the goddess herself, telling him to give her marriage to a man and expressed her wish to be worshipped by the groom, as she no longer wanted to receive worship from ascetic priests. From that day onwards, all the sebayets (worshippers of the deity) are married men, after all, who will dare to evade the orders of the Divine Mother!
Now another interesting legend exist which is somewhat linked to the given legend. Our girl Uma was married to a Vaishnav named Bhabanidas Chakraborty. One day, Bhabanidas received a divine message from the Mother, asking him to apply sandalwood paste or tilaka to her forehead. Now this was a Vaishnav ritual which was not permissible by the dogmas of the Shakta sect. However, the next morning Bhabanidas found a unfinished decorations of sandalwood paste with tinge of vermillion spread on it. From that day onwards, this novel practice had become a daily ritual at the temple.
What Kalighat means to Kolkata




                                                                                                     
Modern day Kalighat temple.







The idol of the goddess Kali at the temple.


The Kalighat temple has been an icon of the city since time immemorial. It is truly hard to find a Bengali, spare a Kolkatan, who is not aware of the grand festivities , enjoyed by thousands, at the temple. Amidst all these festivities, one often stops and wonders what the temple means to Kolkata. As one dives deeper into the question, one finds that there could hardly be a more suitable deity for the city. The black, naked and tongue showing idol might appear violent to the unaccustomed eye. Same is the case with the city, which, with all its hustle and bustle, seems a bit frightening at first sight. But as one looks deeper into the eyes of the deity, one discovers a gamut of positive energy, capable of acheiving the impossible. So when one wonders how the city managed to live strong for all these centuries, the answer lies in that positive energy which can be felt at every street, slum and the the noise. Kolkata may not be 'kicking', but sorry Mr. Rajiv Gandhi, we are definitely 'alive'!